Thursday, 4 November 2010

Italian/Greek Odyssey

London

Murder in your street: if you have any details contact the police immediately. That was the first of 2 shocks since I’ve been back in London in an as many days. Then a stranger hands me a day paid transport ticket at 11am yesterday. I am reminded that London has a history of murderers and politeness. Working backwards my holiday ended in...

Venice

Sing, dance or swim my way through Venezia? Crossing the Grand Canal on a taxi, crammed into the space so that we are standing awkwardly, I decide definitely NOT to swim, partly from the funky smells. This is a city of masks and canals, romantic couples, wedding parties, and exorbitant food prices, a coffee on Piazza San Marco for €10. Vivaldi was born here and ode to his composing expertise, a performance of the Four Seasons is in order. What a good way to end my Italian/Greek Odyssey.

Bologna

The most amazing food ever, raw, processed or cooked. Photographing fruit and vegetables at the market was so fun, the brightest colours, juicy, plump, vibrant and fresh as ever. Who could have guessed Bolognese from Bologna? The cured meats were deluxe but my husband wasn’t too keen on Mortadella. Enjoyed an outdoor table where the vibrant waiter explained the difference between Tortellini and Tortelloni.

Florence

Firenze has shown me the famous perfect bodies of Michelangelo’s David and Botticelli’s Birth of Venus. Thank you Firenze! A walk up the hills reveals the romantic skyline and I am inspired by the artsy folk sketching at bridges, sculptures and inside galleries.

Pisa

Standing with my back to Pisa I gaze at the crowd, masses of people looking overbalanced with their compulsory leaning pose. Should I follow the trend and bow to peer pressure? Later on the other side of town a distressed, lost, French tourist stops me and exasperated at my inability to speak French gesticulates wildly asking “le torre, le torre”. The art here was the best: Joan Miro exhibition, wacky street murals and the giant Keith Haring public mural.

Sienna & Volterra

Transport me into a medieval world. Gazing up at the buildings on the Piazza fills me with wonder, dated from 1100 AD, I am awed by the history before me. In comparison, Volterra interests me for modern reasons. Scenes from New Moon, a love tale where Bella strives to save her soul mate Edward from exposing his true identity and sure death, excite my romantic side. In the freezing wind I walk in the footsteps of these novel characters.

Naples

Rubbish, stink and dog poo. And all I really wanted to meet was the godfather “leave the gun, take the cannelloni.” (Clemenza to Rocco in The Godfather) Highlights were... a trip to Pompeii & Vesuvius and another day away in Sorrento. Historic remains of a violent volcano and the latter a holiday town of cobbled streets and pretty boutiques.

Salerno

Bunny hopped my way to the Amalfi Coast after a delicious and cheap self service lunch of, as always, fresh, crunchy mozzarella and bruschetta. Lonely planet guides suggested a bus ride to/from Amalfi, part death defying- part hilarious with the constant honking.

Rome

History deluxe deluxe, even I needed a nap on the grass on the Palatine Hill, the archaeologist guide around the Coliseum adding a rich background and detail. Staying at Stella’s B&B supplied my Italian mamma. And the Italian(or German if you’re pedantic) papa, the Pope coincidentally was addressing the crowd as I neared the Vatican.

­Athens

This city contains the most amazing embassy ever, excellent service, where they replaced my stolen passport in 3 hours! The rocky outcrop beside the Acropolis where Paul preached to the Romans is free to visit and provided a peaceful moment after the turmoil of the last week.

Santorini

The sheer size of the Volcano is impossible to imagine until the enormous ferry sails through the caldera and I am totally stunned, and happy that there was no reawakening during my visit. No hope of survival against one of the world’s largest explosive volcanoes.

Ithaca

Due to a genealogical research project, a visit to the small island of just 3000 inhabitants is in order. Vathy, the capital, has a picturesque bay with a hotel on the water. I have this fantastic idea howsabout we hire a car and drive to the other villages, and then stop at the Odyssey Archaeological site and lock my bag in the car? Dumb dumb dumb, when returning to the car to notice the smashed glass, bag stolen with not only my purse and phone but my PASSPORT inside. Frantic I start yelling police (forgotten the Greek version already). I am impressed with the locals; they are helpful and caring even to a hysterical tourist. I now know the Ithacan police well and would visit this sleepy Island again...

­The beginning of my holiday as it starts in Athens recorded below.

­